Scotland 7: Day 26

03.27.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 16:40

I woke up this morning and was in the mood for another castle to visit. I checked my guide book and saw that I could get a relatively inexpensive round-trip train ticket to Aberdour station, which is only a 5-minute walk from Aberdour Castle. I stopped for a quick bite to eat and then headed down the hill to Edinburgh Waverly Station. 15 minutes later, I was stepping off the train in Aberdour.

Before we get to the castle, here is your Aberdour Castle history lesson:

Aberdour has a good claim to be considered one of the oldest fortified residences in Scotland. The first castle was a wooden motte erected in the twelfth century by the de Mortimer. They were typical of the mercenary Anglo-Norman knights invited to Scotland by David I to stiffen his military capability. The first motte had been replaced by a high stone keep by 1240. The castle dominated a key stretch of the Firth of Forth and the waters beneath the tower are still known as ‘Mortimer’s Deep’. The remains of a Mortimer baron, famed for his wickedness, we’re being carried by boat for burial with in the abbey on Inch Colm Island, till the Abbot called upon God for help. The bones of the impious baron ended up in the stormy Forth. 


In the years after Bannockburn, Arberdour Castle and its richest states were given by Robert the Bruce into the safekeeping of Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray. Thomas was Bruce’s closest friend and had played a key part in the war for Scottish Independence. Bruce gave things for his victory in 1314 sitting in the ‘leper’s squint’ within the chapel of St. Fillan that nestles next to the castle. By 1342 however, the castle had fallen into the grasp of the powerful Douglases, unambitious noble house even by the rapacious standards of the fourteenth century in Europe. 


Aberdour remained in the hands of the Douglases, Earls of Morton, until the family tripped up in the complex political intrigues of the sixteenth century. James Douglas held the highest office of state under Queen Mary serving as herLord High Chancellor and then as Regent of Scotland during her imprisonment in England. He was however implicated in the brutal murder of Mary’s secretary Rizzio in 1566. Others suspected that he had a hand in the dramatic death of her second husband Lord Darnley, blown to smithereens at Kirk o’ Field the following year. Her son James VI signaled his coming to power in 1581 by trying and beheading James Douglas for these unsolved crimes committed more than a decade before.


Aberdour and its lands were naturally forfeit to the Crown. Although the Douglases won their way back into James’ favour, the long decline of Aberdour Castle had begun. The building was burned in 1688 and again during the 1715 Rising when dragoons were billeted there. This fine house was in turn, a barracks, a school room and a piggery before its rescue from ruin in the 1920s.

Scottish Castles & Fortifications – Richard Dargie

Scotland 7: Day 25

03.26.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 18:34

Today was another incredible day in Edinburgh! I walked so much this morning that my knees felt old. I was able to rest for a bit, however, and now my body is reset and I am feeling 100%, once again. The reason for this- I decided to take a walk to the south and east to go take a look at Craigmillar Castle.

When you first get to the castle grounds, you are greeted by a gift shop (of course). Here is where you can purchase the entry fee for the castle, which I’m glad was only £6. I did get to meet Amber, who is “The Castle Cat”. And even though she’s often cranky, she did let me pet her, even though the store clerk told me that she usually doesn’t like to be pet. She is quite possibly the reincarnation of one of my Scottish ancestors.

And now it’s time to learn about Craigmillar Castle (it’s true- DavsAddiction.com is fun AND informative):

Craigmillar Castle in Edinburgh has a dark past, linked to plague, murder and at least one horrible death. Less than three miles from Edinburgh yet perched high on a hill in a rural setting, Craigmillar’s air was considered very healthy in the late Middle Ages. Several monarchs used the castle as a convenient retreat when pestilence was raging through the narrow wynds of the city. James III also used Craigmillar in 1477 to imprison his brother John, Earl of Mar, who later died mysteriously within the castle’s walls. The discovery of a skeleton walled into the castle vaults during restoration work in 1813 added to Craigmillar’s notorious reputation.

In 1566, Mary Queen of Scots ordered a refurbishment of Craigmillar after the murder of her secretary Rizzio at Holyrood Palace. Craigmillar Castle was much more secure than Holyrood and was just far enough away from the plotting and intrigue that spilled out of the taverns along the High Street and Canongate to calm Mary’s nerves. She remained there during the winter of 1566-67, refusing to follow the advice of her half-brother Regent Moray that she should divorce her husband Lord Darnley. Mary’s refusal sealed Darnley’s fate however, for several of her nobles then met at Craigmillar to plan the murder of the Queen’s Consort. Darnley was ‘blawn up wi gunpooder’ at Kirk o’Fields the following March. The neighborhood below the castle is still called ‘Little France’, a memory of the winter in which the castle village was crammed with French courtiers and servants waiting upon the Queen.

Craigmillar was an important link in the chain of fortifications that defended Edinburgh from invastion. Overlooking Arthur’s Seat and one of the main routes into the capital, Craigmillar was within sight of Edinuburgh Castle which allowed for the passing of messages by flashing mirrors and beacon braziers. The castle that is currently on the site was begun by Sir Simon Preston in 1374, probably replacing a wooden fort held by John de Capella. A particularly find machiolated curtain wall and circular angle towers were added after 1427. The bailey, which held supply buildings, a chapel and gardens, survives today in excellent condition, despite being burned badly by the Earl of Hertford in 1544 during the ‘Rough Wooing’. The gun loops in the castle doocot or dovecot are a reminder that the residents of Craigmillar had to remain vigilant even in the course of their daily domestic routines. The Prestons eventually sold the castle to John Gilmour in 1660 but it was ruined by 1800.

Scottish Castles & Fortifications – Richard Dargie

I enjoyed learning about this so much but I just wish I had a sound remember historical facts like my dad can. At any rate, this has inspired me to add a new bucket list item and that is to visit 60 castles in Scotland. Even though I’ve seen Edinburgh Castle a few times, and even Stirling Castle as well, I have decided to start from scratch, Craigmillar Castle being the first one visited. Let the games begin!

Scotland 7: Day 24

03.25.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 21:58

It is so good to be back in Edinburgh! What a wonderful city this is! Even though this will be my last stop of Scotland 7, this is far from over. There are tons that I want to do here, and I’m hoping to even get some day trips out of the city- but you’ll have to check back to see what happens.

I first need to give a shout-out to my friend Robyn. I said something in the last video that seemed to have shaken her to her very core. I believe it was, “…and I don’t even like Harry Potter.” I guess I should explain myself if I am going to make such bold statements.

When I watch any kind of fantasy film, I need structure. I need rules and some sort of discipline. Every time the characters in the Harry Potter series are in a bind, they come up with a new power or a new spell. Here’s my point: If you had a quidditch broomstick, why on earth would you not carry that with you everywhere you went? There are so many problems that you could avoid if you kept that handy.

If you had an invisibility cloak, why on earth wouldn’t you carry the thing everywhere with you? How often would that have come in handy throughout the series? A flying car? It might be a good idea to keep that ready, especially because for some odd reason, YOU DECIDED TO NOT BRING YOUR FLYING BROOMSTICK WITH YOU.

And then Hermione gets that locket that allows her to go back in time? Are you freakin’ kidding me? That was probably the last straw for me. Yes, I saw the rest of the movies, and recently I even added them to my movie collection, but still!

I know I should just accept it for what it is- entertainment. I mean, how cool would it be to have magical powers? I should stop being so picky, but every single time I watch it, I’m always saying things like, “Oh- too bad you didn’t bring your $#@& flying broomstick with you!” Then I get mad and look for a pillow to throw at the screen.

Ok, now that my rant is over, we can return to your regularly scheduled blog entry. And in this portion, I just want to give a shoutout to Colee, Zuka, Dave, Dominoe, Julie, and Makaylee. I was with you guys the first time I ever came to the United Kingdom! See what you did? Here’s another video:

032519 Back to Edinburgh

Scotland 7: Day 23

03.24.19 | Glasgow, Scotland | 19:53

I woke up this morning with plenty of time to walk to church. According to Google Maps, it would have taken me about an hour and a half. I was up for the challenge. I guess I got started later than I thought because all of a sudden, the G.P.S. told me that I was going to be 24 minutes late.

Add the fact that the rain started, plus the wind kept turning my umbrella inside-out. This meant that I wussed out and decided I’d better summon an Uber. I’m so thankful for modern convenience, especially when it’s raining outside.

The rest of the day was spent relaxing, listening to podcasts, and just hanging out at the flat. I wish I had something better to report to you today, but I don’t. It’s time to pick out a movie and snuggle in bed. I’m sad that tomorrow I will have to leave this city.

Scotland 7: Day 22

03.23.19 | Glasgow, Scotland | 22:34

Today turned out to be another great day! I decided to go for a walk and explore the west side of Glasgow. I’m already staying further west than I normally do, but I walked all the way over to the University of Glasgow. What a beautiful campus! While I was there, I manage to make this little video.

Scotland 7: Day 21

03.22.19 | Glasgow, Scotland | 22:32

Today I took the opportunity to check something else off my bucket list. I walked to Queen Street Station and hopped on to a train that took me to Falkirk. From there, I walked 2 1/2 to 3 miles one way, all so that I could go and see The Kelpies.

I would lie to you and say that this has been a life-long dream of mine, but since the sculpture was built in 2013, still it is quite a sight to behold since these horses are over 30 meters high! [To learn more about The Kelpies, check out the entry at Wikipedia.org]

Scotland 7: Day 20

03.21.19 | Glasgow, Scotland | 23:31

I would rather live in the country, than in the city. I hope I will always have a home in a place where you can still see the stars at night. Although this is true, I sure do love to wander around the city at night when it’s all lit up! This is what I did last night- it was amazing!

Glasgow at Night

Scotland 7: Day 19

03.20.19 | Glasgow, Scotland |21:25

After this morning’s breakfast, I should probably eat only celery sticks for the rest of my journey. I promise I don’t always eat like a pig- but this is a vacation, after all. I had to stop at Oban Chocolate Company one last time for breakfast. Plus- ice cream for breakfast! When my server brought it out, she told me that it was a good choice because the mango made it healthy.

The train ride from Oban to Glasgow was rather nice. I was supposed to get off the train part way and transfer to another one, but one of the workers told me that was a misprint on my ticket and this train would take me all the way.

I’m staying in the most awesome flat, a little farther west than I’m familiar with. I usually have stayed in the Euro Hostel here, but I’m well under my budget and so I thought I’d splurge a tiny bit.

I created this little video of a few clips from the train ride, as well as a tour of my Airbnb here in Glasgow. I hope you enjoy!

032919 Oban to Glasgow, Airbnb

Scotland 7: Day 18

03.19.19 | Oban, Scotland | 21:03

When the plane first landed in Edinburgh at the start of this adventure, I thought that I had matured and that I’d given up childish things- you see, it had become a Scotland tradition for me to dye my hair. It was never a conservative shade either. I definitely wanted something funky that makes people wonder who or what I am.

I thought I’d forego the tradition this year, however. Not only would this save me some money, but I’ve learned from the mistakes of my past and I want to be the kind of person that my mom wants me to be….

Just kidding- my hair is currently blue.

Scotland 7: Day 16

03.17.19 | Iona, Scotland | 08:09

Aside from the fact that the bed is not the most comfortable, I had a pretty decent night’s sleep- as it turns out, I was worried about nothing. From the moment I got a message from the owner, I’d been stressing a bit. I woke up at about 07:00- it’s a perfect Sunday! I think I will hang out for a bit so I can see what the weather wants to do.

Today was a ton of walking! Since Iona is only three miles long, by one mile wide, I was able to see so much fo the wee island. The island is where St. Columba built his abbey, back around 563 a.d. [see info on Wikipedia- scroll down to heading Scotland].

My Neighbors
Selfie with an Iona beach in the background
A Hairy Coo
A Hairy Coo