Scotland 5: Day 49

04.18.16 | Edinburgh Flat | 21:02

The walk to the Stornoway airport was very windy! I’m surprised that with my huge backpack, I wasn’t pushed over several times. Sometimes I would have to stop walking for a moment and simply plant my feet. I certainly didn’t want to be pushed into traffic, not that there was a whole lot of that.

When I got to the airport, I had about seven hours to kill. My flight to Edinburgh wasn’t leaving until 18:35 and since I had to be checked out of the hotel long before that, I really didn’t have much of an option. The trek from downtown to the airport was about 2 ½ miles. When I arrived, I walked up to the gentleman at the Flybe ticket counter to ask if there was an earlier flight to EDI, and if so, how much it would cost to change. The gentleman told me that there wasn’t, but I could switch to an earlier Glasgow flight and then get on a train or bus from there. The change wasn’t very expensive, so this is what I decided to do. This move put me into Edinburgh about 5 hours earlier than I’d expected!

 

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The good news is that I’m now back in the city I love most. The bad news is that this will be my last stop in Scotland before its time to come home. I’m not going to think of that right now, though. More good news: For this last part of the trip I’m renting a flat in Old Town, just half a block off The Royal Mile. I found a really great deal through AirBnB. It is pretty much the supreme location! The only reason I can afford it is because it’s still the off-season, so things are cheaper.

I say this is my last stop in Scotland but I’m taking the scenic route home. To find out how I’m getting home next week, you’re just going to have to read it on this site next week. I’ll just say- I won’t be flying in a straight line, and a trip to Western Europe wouldn’t be the same without getting to see an old, dear friend.


Back to the beginning of Scotland 5 | Forward to Scotland 5: Day 50

Scotland 5: Day 35

04.04.16 | Edinburgh Hostel | 10:16

I left the hostel this morning to search out a better spot to get wifi and I ended up getting breakfast at a Turkish cafe. While there, I downloaded the rest of the General Conference talks and set out to walk up Arthur’s Seat a third time. As I crossed Holyrood Park, the wind and the rain was hitting my face. A thought came to mind: There is no way I’m going to walk up this mountain right now. I salute the blessed and dedicated skinny people who got to where they are (weight-wise) by ascending to the top on days like this.

Instead, I have come back to the warmth of the hostel to charge my phone and start to pack my bag since I leave for my next destination tomorrow. Oh- how I love this city, even in the rain and the wind and the cold. I can’t wait to come back (and I will be back before I fly back to the states).

The guy in the bunk next to me is still in bed, he’s awake now but playing whatever on his computer. Maybe he’s the one who is stealing all of the bandwidth. Jerk face.

20:08

Earlier I went to see the movie Ran (trailer). This movie was originally filmed in 1985 and they really do not make films like this anymore! This was at a cinema on the west side of Edinburgh that shows more of the art films, and films that do well at the film festivals. By the way, the other day I also saw a movie there called Marguerite, that is about this privileged French woman who loves to sing… we’ll just leave it at that… good flick, though!

Now I’m sitting in bed, hoping that I fall asleep soon. The hot shower I took seems to be doing its important work. I’m pretty wiped out. I have an early train to my next destination, tomorrow morning. And you know how this works- I’d hate to give away the surprise.


Back to the beginning of Scotland 5 | Forward to Scotland 5: Day 36

Scotland 5: Day 34

04.03.16 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 10:29

It’s raining today—a cold and windy Sunday morning. I just got back from breakfast and think I’ll stay inside and see if some of this cold weather burns off. I don’t mind the overcast weather, but I planned to walk through a cemetery or two to look for names. At the moment, that would be a damp mess. Instead, I’m sitting on my hostel bed, waiting for some inspirational talks to download onto my iPhone.

19:31

I found a late lunch at a restaurant west of the castle called Bun Meats Bun. Quite a creative name- many of their menu items had clever names as well, such as “The Lamb Shank Redemption.” I giggled as I looked it over. I ended up getting a burger, but this was unlike any other burger I’ve had. You see- this was called a Butter Bacon Burger… but the butter was made from bone marrow!

This is what I call opening myself up to trying new things. The problem is that the burger tasted quite weird. I think it’s merely the fact that they told me what I was eating, so I wanted to reject it automatically. That’s not what life is about- life is about (or should be about) opening yourself up to new experiences, at least in my opinion. I think it would’ve tasted better if I’d not known the ingredients.

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19:35

I feel sorry for one of my roommates at the hostel here. He stays up all night playing some game on his computer, and then he sleeps all day. Doesn’t he realize how amazing this city is? There’s so much to see and do and experience! That being said, I’m going for a walk, maybe up Calton Hill, but I haven’t decided yet. I have downloaded most of the General Conference talks and am going to go have a listen.

Scotland 5: Day 33

04.02.16 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 10:10

I was finally able to walk up Calton Hill this morning. It’s a great little hike, and much easier than Arthur’s Seat. I lucked out- there weren’t any tourists lurking about and I more-or-less had the entire hill to myself! It was quite nice!

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Tonight I went to dinner at The Witchery. I first found out about this restaurant from my friend and coworker, Gwen (a BWI-based customer service agent for Southwest Airlines: Shout out to Gwen!), years ago when she had just returned from a trip to Scotland and heard of my plans to go back. She told me I had to check out this restaurant, so I did. This is now one of my favorite Edinburgh traditions.

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The restaurant is located toward the top of The Royal Mile, I believe it’s the third building down the south side of the street from the castle. It is a bit on the expensive side, but the ambiance is worth it, even just once during a visit.

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Pigeon

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Venison

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Scotland 5: Day 32

04.01.16 | Edinburgh Hostel | 08:07

I’ve been laying in bed, thinking about what I want to do today. I haven’t started up to Arthur’s Seat yet because it’s raining at the moment. There are parts of the climb that are perhaps too dangerous if you add water to the mix. Some slick rock and mud, things like that. Then again, there probably won’t be a whole lot of people up the- I’m tempted to have a go.

Actually, I think this morning’s focus is going to be breakfast and then laundry. I’m on my last clean shirt, so it’s time. I have some letters to write and send anyway. Maybe I can find a museum or some other indoor activity for later. Stay tuned.

20:02

I decided to walk the Royal Mile and just take pictures. Some of these pictures may seem dumb to you, but I took them for a reason. I took a picture of many of the ‘Close’ signs because I want to go back and see if there is anything about them on the internet- like so-and-so died here or this-or-that happened to whats-his-face. Then some of these pictures I thought were simply beautiful! I do love this city.

The pictures stop, just before I get to the top of the Royal Mile. This is because the wind start to kick up and I became very cold, having left my scarf back at the hostel. Maybe tomorrow I’ll take continue up the mile, taking more pictures, or perhaps I’ll go back to the bottom and work my way up the other side of the street. I’m going to wait to see what the weather is going before I make any decisions, however.

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04.02.16 | 01:35

I found a dance club. Yes, I danced. This is amazing because I don’t dance. No alcohol even needed! I’m so blessed to have been raised in such a home where I know I don’t need alcohol (or drugs for that matter) to have a good time! I’m naturally high on life.


Back to the beginning of Scotland 5 | Forward to Scotland 5: Day 33

Scotland 5: Day 31

03.30.16 | Edinburgh Hostel | 23:49

My hostel in Edinburgh has been having internet issues at the moment. I originally posted this day right on time like the other days, but for some reason, my blog service has since lost the post. This is a repost, but since I didn’t save what I’d written, I’ve had to retell the story. If you already read about day 31, then hopefully I’ve added some more information. A lesson has been learned: I’m going to keep the notes I take about each day in the off-chance that this happens again. To quote a line from the song She Doesn’t Know by Michael McLean, my post was “…lost somewhere in cyberspace!”

What I do remember about day 31 is that there was another walk up Arthur’s seat. I managed to take a few more pictures while I was up there. This was perfect because there was hardly anyone on the mountain yet.

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The absolute best part of the day was going on a ghost tour at night! This is where we went into the old Edinburgh underground, well after dark, where tens of thousands of homeless people had once lived, many years ago. The tour guide shared a story of when the city passed a law making it illegal to be homeless. Any person without a roof over his or her head at night was collected and shipped off to Australia, or worse. This is the reason that so many of the homeless people would end up underground at night- they were hiding.

Back then, it was also illegal to be the child of a single mother (like you had any control over who your parents were). The city council decided that all these bastard kids would no doubt grow up to be thieves since they didn’t have fathers to teach them right from wrong. In order to keep this from happening, the city officials would take the child from the mother and sell him or her to the orphanage to make the child work. Often these kids would have to literally work their fingers to the bone.

These underground passages were filled with so much disease that many of these homeless people would die. Their deaths were actually looked by the city as a way of controlling the homeless population. The limestone walls would slowly dissolve in the damp conditions due to all of the feces and urine that was being dumped into the streets overhead. This would drip down on these people.

In order to remove the damp caused by this waste, the people would spread tons of straw on the ground to absorb it all. This was done every 6 months or so when the seasons changed. It would get so dry and nasty that this underground world would become a major breeding ground for rats and other pests.

The tunnels had decent air ventilation but no plumbing. Because of these conditions, if there was ever a fire in the underground, it would burn hot and fast. The firemen and police would refuse to ever come underground to fight these fires. This was yet another way to control the numbers of the homeless population.

During our tour, one girl in our group actually fainted while our guide was telling us all these scary, sorted stories. At first, I thought she was planted in the group and that she was supposed to faint to make it scarier for us, but this was not the case. Another one in our group had been on this tour three times already and this had never happened while she had been underground.

The tour ended up at Greyfriars, a very old cemetery that was once the only place Edinburgh had to bury their bodies. Even though there are less than 200 graves, it was estimated that over half a million bodies had actually been buried in the small area. Years ago, they had the soil tested and found out that up to 2% of the soil was actually human remains. CREEPY!

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Back to the beginning of Scotland 5 | Forward to Scotland 5: Day 32

Scotland 5: Day 30

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This church that sits toward the top of The Royal Mile is now some sort of community building. I love it!

03.30.16 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 18:27

I left the hostel this morning and walked to the top of the Royal Mile to find some breakfast. I also wanted to find a specific booth a man had set up. I saw it yesterday, it was some beautiful photography from around Edinburgh- I spied one I really liked but didn’t want to carry it around with me so he told me he’d be back the next day. I never did find him, though. Hopefully, he’ll reappear tomorrow.

Breakfast was at a little cafe inside Deacon Brodie’s close. Brodie’s real life is believed to be what inspired Robert Lewis Stevenson to write Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, a few years after Brodie’s death.

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I walked down the length of the Royal Mile, stopping at Holyrood Palace at the bottom. I wanted to find out if this was the place that James II was buried. There’s a good chance that I may be related to this king on my mom’s side of the family. I found it once while searching for my own family history charts, but I’m having trouble locating it again. So either a correction was made to my family line, or I’m just looking in the wrong place.

Further research is needed. I asked one of the tour guides, and he told me that James II was buried here, even though most of the grave has been desecrated. I would love to see it day-after-tomorrow, as the tourist season opens on the first of April.

Next, I decided to hike up to Arthur’s Seat. This hike takes a little more time and is a little steeper than I’d remembered. Still, it was great to make the ascent, even with many tourists getting in my way. It was hard to get a good picture at the top of the climb because of the massive number of people on the mountain! I did manage to get a few, however.

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When I’d reached the top of Arthur’s Seat, I ate this macaroon. Even though I do like Irn Bru, this combination was quite nasty!
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And now we come to last night’s dinner. I wandered up Victoria street and found a really great French restaurant. I’m not even sure what the place was called. The main course was a seafood gumbo- delicious! My only complaint: I wish that restaurants would always de-shell the shrimps and prawns that they serve. It’s horrible to have to reach into a hot dish and make a mess of everything trying to disassemble the poor, delicious, dead creature.

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Scotland 5: Day 29

03.29.16 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 15:50

It’s great to be back to my favorite city in the world (well, my favorite so far- there are many places I’ve yet to travel)! I love this place! It’s been too long! You know I prefer the country over the city, but still, I love this one! On the train over, I happened to sit by three high school students: Aydan, his sister Aila and a girl traveling by herself named Maricel. They were a blast! We all drank Irn Bru together, like best friends or something. Aydan and Aila were continuing their journey and live in Essex, England. Marcel was from somewhere in the Edinburgh area.

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On my way to the hostel, I was coming down a steep hill, and since my pack is so heavy, I misstepped and fell on the sidewalk in front of plenty of people. I rarely get embarrassed, because I try to cover up whatever happened with a joke. I stood up, brushed myself off but couldn’t think of anything witty to say. So I just laughed at myself. Several people approached me and asked if I was ok. I smiled and told them all was fine.

Once I settled in, I hadn’t had lunch yet, so I headed directly to Monster Mash to get some bangers and mash (sausages and mashed potatoes). This is a favorite comfort food of mine. When I got to the location, I couldn’t see the restaurant… did they go out of business? But they were so good! I was disappointed.

I decided to go into the restaurant that was in its place called Mum’s Comfort Food. Once inside, I recognized it right away. I asked one of the servers if this used to be another place. She said it was indeed Monster Mash before- same owner, same recipes, just change of name. The day was saved!

I wanted to do something, but my leg was starting to bother me a bit, from that nasty fall I’d had earlier. I went to the cinema and saw a matinee. The only thing playing at the time was Zootropolis. Ok I know it’s a kid show, but I really enjoyed it! Stop judging!

20:08

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Walking back tonight, I decided to take a picture of the skyline. That is Edinburgh Castle on the right, plus the top of the Royal Mile to the left. I’ll take some better pictures soon, I promise.

Scotland 4: Day 34

Edinburgh > Glasgow | 09:18

I had a horrible time falling asleep last night. My stomach started bothering me- I felt as if I’d gotten a touch of food poisoning. I waited in bed for a bit, but then it finally went away. When I did fall asleep, however, I slept fine throughout the night.

I just had to say goodbye to Edinburgh, the most magnificent city in the world. My joy is full, but my heart wants more. Is that poetic? I think so. More sad news: I was unable to find my cell phone. That means if any of my friends and family get random calls from someone with a Scottish accent- please ask that person to return my phone.

Thank goodness all my calls are being forwarded to another number, so I’ll still get my messages. I can use my Skype phone on my iPad or my home computer. If anybody texts me, however, that will probably be lost forever. I should have a new phone in 3 or 4 days, hopefully. I suppose I should have gotten traveling insurance.

I just ate a delicious and healthy breakfast from the train’s trolley: a brownie and hot chocolate. This is one of the healthier meals that they offer.

Glasgow, Scotland | 10:36

Check-in time isn’t until 15:00, so I’m hanging out in the lobby. Connor and Rorrie should be here somewhere. They stayed here last night, and even though they are leaving on a cruise to Ireland tonight, they said that they might meet me for lunch. When I arrived, I asked the receptionist if the twins had checked out. She asked me, “Conner and Rory?” I laughed and said, yes. She said they’d checked out, but they said they’d be back. I find it funny that they sent a message to me through the front desk. I hope they get here so we can grab lunch or something.

I had lunch at the Brunswick Hotel again (I’d eaten there at the beginning of this trip), and it was lovely. I stayed there for about an hour and a half before heading back to the hostel. When I got back, the receptionist said that the twins were there about 10 minutes ago, and said that they were going to find me at the Brunswick. There were so many people out- the sun was shining, and it was a Saturday. We could have quickly passed each other on the street and not seen each other.

14:03

I checked into my room- a queen size bed! This will be the first time on this trip that I’m not sleeping in a bunk bed.

20:46

I got dinner tonight at a chippy- I had a pretty good shish kabob. It’s been a while since I’ve had that.

Scotland 4: Day 33

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Edinburgh, Scotland | 10:14

I had a great sleep last night but was woken a bit too early. At about 07:00 or 07:15, construction started working in the room next to ours, and there was loud banging. I’d only wished that they would have held off for a bit, but no big deal. I got up and headed to breakfast. The twins have checked out and are on their way to Glasgow. Chin has checked out as well and is on his way to London. I don’t check out until tomorrow, and I’m not sure what today will bring.

Tonight I think I’ll get some more bangers and mash! I’ve known about bangers and mash (sausages with mashed potatoes) for years, but didn’t know why they called the sausages ‘bangers’. Well, I found out yesterday, and I’m that much smarter. Back during “the war” (I’m not sure if they’re referring to WWI or WWII), food in Scotland was getting scarce, and they needed to find a way to stretch what food they had further. They started adding water to their sausages to make them bigger. When they would cook the sausage on the stove, the water would come into contact with the hot pan and pop or “BANG!” Thus- sausages became “bangers.” Now you know everything I know.

14:12

I found lunch at The World Famous Maggie Dickson’s Pub. I had never heard of it, but when I went in I saw that her story had been posted on one of the walls:
In 1723 Margaret Dickson, a fish hawker in Edinburgh, left the town to visit relatives after being deserted by her husband. On the way south, she stopped off in Kelso at an Inn to break the journey. She stayed a while and worked in return for her board and lodgings. While she was there, Maggie formed a relationship with the landlady’s son and fell pregnant with his child.

This was not in her contract of employment, so she concealed the fact that she was expecting, and in time the child was born prematurely. When the baby died a few days later, she was determined to throw the body into the River Tweed. Losing her nerve, she laid the baby at the water’s edge.

The body was discovered later that day and traced back to Maggie. Arrested and tried under the 1690 Concealment of Pregnancy Act, she was sentenced to be hanged in the Grassmarket, Edinburgh, on 2nd September 1724.

Maggie was hanged, and after her death was pronounced, the body was to be taken to Musselburgh for burial. On the way there, the funeral party heard noises from Maggie’s coffin. On opening the coffin, they found Maggie to be very much alive!

Recovering to full health, she was allowed to live as it was seen to be God’s will that she survives. Living the rest of her days in Edinburgh, she was known by all as the celebrated ‘Half-Hangit Maggie’!

19:33

I did a bit more exploring, and I have to admit that I was a little bit sad. Tomorrow I have to leave this city is making me somewhat emotional. I guess all I can do is start planning my next trip to this beautiful country. It may not be for a year, or three years, five years or ten years from now, but I’ve started to plan my next visit.

As promised, my “last meal” was back at Monster Mash for some more bangers and mash. This time, however, the bangers were pork & blue cheese, and the second one was a Moroccan lamb. The mash had grain mustard mixed in, and it was great! I topped it all off with onion gravy this time.