Edinburgh

Scotland 7: Day 26

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03.27.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 16:40

I woke up this morning and was in the mood for another castle to visit. I checked my guide book and saw that I could get a relatively inexpensive round-trip train ticket to Aberdour station, which is only a 5-minute walk from Aberdour Castle. I stopped for a quick bite to eat and then headed down the hill to Edinburgh Waverly Station. 15 minutes later, I was stepping off the train in Aberdour.

Before we get to the castle, here is your Aberdour Castle history lesson:

Aberdour has a good claim to be considered one of the oldest fortified residences in Scotland. The first castle was a wooden motte erected in the twelfth century by the de Mortimer. They were typical of the mercenary Anglo-Norman knights invited to Scotland by David I to stiffen his military capability. The first motte had been replaced by a high stone keep by 1240. The castle dominated a key stretch of the Firth of Forth and the waters beneath the tower are still known as ‘Mortimer’s Deep’. The remains of a Mortimer baron, famed for his wickedness, we’re being carried by boat for burial with in the abbey on Inch Colm Island, till the Abbot called upon God for help. The bones of the impious baron ended up in the stormy Forth. 


In the years after Bannockburn, Arberdour Castle and its richest states were given by Robert the Bruce into the safekeeping of Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray. Thomas was Bruce’s closest friend and had played a key part in the war for Scottish Independence. Bruce gave things for his victory in 1314 sitting in the ‘leper’s squint’ within the chapel of St. Fillan that nestles next to the castle. By 1342 however, the castle had fallen into the grasp of the powerful Douglases, unambitious noble house even by the rapacious standards of the fourteenth century in Europe. 


Aberdour remained in the hands of the Douglases, Earls of Morton, until the family tripped up in the complex political intrigues of the sixteenth century. James Douglas held the highest office of state under Queen Mary serving as herLord High Chancellor and then as Regent of Scotland during her imprisonment in England. He was however implicated in the brutal murder of Mary’s secretary Rizzio in 1566. Others suspected that he had a hand in the dramatic death of her second husband Lord Darnley, blown to smithereens at Kirk o’ Field the following year. Her son James VI signaled his coming to power in 1581 by trying and beheading James Douglas for these unsolved crimes committed more than a decade before.


Aberdour and its lands were naturally forfeit to the Crown. Although the Douglases won their way back into James’ favour, the long decline of Aberdour Castle had begun. The building was burned in 1688 and again during the 1715 Rising when dragoons were billeted there. This fine house was in turn, a barracks, a school room and a piggery before its rescue from ruin in the 1920s.

Scottish Castles & Fortifications – Richard Dargie

Scotland 7: Day 25

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03.26.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 18:34

Today was another incredible day in Edinburgh! I walked so much this morning that my knees felt old. I was able to rest for a bit, however, and now my body is reset and I am feeling 100%, once again. The reason for this- I decided to take a walk to the south and east to go take a look at Craigmillar Castle.

When you first get to the castle grounds, you are greeted by a gift shop (of course). Here is where you can purchase the entry fee for the castle, which I’m glad was only £6. I did get to meet Amber, who is “The Castle Cat”. And even though she’s often cranky, she did let me pet her, even though the store clerk told me that she usually doesn’t like to be pet. She is quite possibly the reincarnation of one of my Scottish ancestors.

And now it’s time to learn about Craigmillar Castle (it’s true- DavsAddiction.com is fun AND informative):

Craigmillar Castle in Edinburgh has a dark past, linked to plague, murder and at least one horrible death. Less than three miles from Edinburgh yet perched high on a hill in a rural setting, Craigmillar’s air was considered very healthy in the late Middle Ages. Several monarchs used the castle as a convenient retreat when pestilence was raging through the narrow wynds of the city. James III also used Craigmillar in 1477 to imprison his brother John, Earl of Mar, who later died mysteriously within the castle’s walls. The discovery of a skeleton walled into the castle vaults during restoration work in 1813 added to Craigmillar’s notorious reputation.

In 1566, Mary Queen of Scots ordered a refurbishment of Craigmillar after the murder of her secretary Rizzio at Holyrood Palace. Craigmillar Castle was much more secure than Holyrood and was just far enough away from the plotting and intrigue that spilled out of the taverns along the High Street and Canongate to calm Mary’s nerves. She remained there during the winter of 1566-67, refusing to follow the advice of her half-brother Regent Moray that she should divorce her husband Lord Darnley. Mary’s refusal sealed Darnley’s fate however, for several of her nobles then met at Craigmillar to plan the murder of the Queen’s Consort. Darnley was ‘blawn up wi gunpooder’ at Kirk o’Fields the following March. The neighborhood below the castle is still called ‘Little France’, a memory of the winter in which the castle village was crammed with French courtiers and servants waiting upon the Queen.

Craigmillar was an important link in the chain of fortifications that defended Edinburgh from invastion. Overlooking Arthur’s Seat and one of the main routes into the capital, Craigmillar was within sight of Edinuburgh Castle which allowed for the passing of messages by flashing mirrors and beacon braziers. The castle that is currently on the site was begun by Sir Simon Preston in 1374, probably replacing a wooden fort held by John de Capella. A particularly find machiolated curtain wall and circular angle towers were added after 1427. The bailey, which held supply buildings, a chapel and gardens, survives today in excellent condition, despite being burned badly by the Earl of Hertford in 1544 during the ‘Rough Wooing’. The gun loops in the castle doocot or dovecot are a reminder that the residents of Craigmillar had to remain vigilant even in the course of their daily domestic routines. The Prestons eventually sold the castle to John Gilmour in 1660 but it was ruined by 1800.

Scottish Castles & Fortifications – Richard Dargie

I enjoyed learning about this so much but I just wish I had a sound remember historical facts like my dad can. At any rate, this has inspired me to add a new bucket list item and that is to visit 60 castles in Scotland. Even though I’ve seen Edinburgh Castle a few times, and even Stirling Castle as well, I have decided to start from scratch, Craigmillar Castle being the first one visited. Let the games begin!

Scotland 7: Day 24

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03.25.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 21:58

It is so good to be back in Edinburgh! What a wonderful city this is! Even though this will be my last stop of Scotland 7, this is far from over. There are tons that I want to do here, and I’m hoping to even get some day trips out of the city- but you’ll have to check back to see what happens.

I first need to give a shout-out to my friend Robyn. I said something in the last video that seemed to have shaken her to her very core. I believe it was, “…and I don’t even like Harry Potter.” I guess I should explain myself if I am going to make such bold statements.

When I watch any kind of fantasy film, I need structure. I need rules and some sort of discipline. Every time the characters in the Harry Potter series are in a bind, they come up with a new power or a new spell. Here’s my point: If you had a quidditch broomstick, why on earth would you not carry that with you everywhere you went? There are so many problems that you could avoid if you kept that handy.

If you had an invisibility cloak, why on earth wouldn’t you carry the thing everywhere with you? How often would that have come in handy throughout the series? A flying car? It might be a good idea to keep that ready, especially because for some odd reason, YOU DECIDED TO NOT BRING YOUR FLYING BROOMSTICK WITH YOU.

And then Hermione gets that locket that allows her to go back in time? Are you freakin’ kidding me? That was probably the last straw for me. Yes, I saw the rest of the movies, and recently I even added them to my movie collection, but still!

I know I should just accept it for what it is- entertainment. I mean, how cool would it be to have magical powers? I should stop being so picky, but every single time I watch it, I’m always saying things like, “Oh- too bad you didn’t bring your $#@& flying broomstick with you!” Then I get mad and look for a pillow to throw at the screen.

Ok, now that my rant is over, we can return to your regularly scheduled blog entry. And in this portion, I just want to give a shoutout to Colee, Zuka, Dave, Dominoe, Julie, and Makaylee. I was with you guys the first time I ever came to the United Kingdom! See what you did? Here’s another video:

032519 Back to Edinburgh

Scotland 7: Day 7

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03.08.19 | Glasgow, Scotland | 15:46

This morning I had to wave goodbye to Edinburgh… well, it’s never goodbye: I’ll be back before the end of this trip, and am planning on many, many more visits. I finally had a clear, rain-free morning, Yes, the temperature was down in the 40s, but it wasn’t raining. I blew a kiss goodbye and boarded the train to Glasgow. When I arrived, it was raining.

It’s great to be back! I checked in to the Euro Hostels, where I have stayed more times than I can count on one hand, and went to find some lunch and a travel soap holder.

It needs to be said that Imperial Leather is the most awesome soap and smelling it reminds me of Scotland. This is because I have always bought it while I was in Scotland (the first time was probably because it was cheap). I believe the fish time was back in 2011 when dinosaurs roamed the earth [see my post from 2011]. Now this smell, just like the taste of Irn-Bru, always acts as a reminder. Has anyone seen this brand in the states?

I found lunch at a Wetherspoon, which is a restaurant/pub chain I’ve seen around Scotland. I ate my first proper fish. & chips of this adventure. This one was especially amazing because I smothered it in salt and vinegar. It came with a side of mushy peas, which made the meal even more spectacular.

Tonight is the first night of Country to County, which is the event that I have planned this entire adventure around [see site]. Literally- last year, I bought tickets to this three-night concert and so I knew I’d needed to be in Glasgow at least today, tomorrow, and Sunday. The rest of this adventure only exists because I bought this non-refundable tickets to this! Truth be told- I’m not entirely sure if the ticket were non-refundable, I never really looked into it. I just pretended they are- so I can justify coming back to Scotland.

I tried napping, but I’m just too excited for the concert tonight! As tired as I was, I just couldn’t sleep. If you love country music, you’ll understand why: Chris Stapleton, Lyle Lovett, Ashley McBryde, Drake White & The Big Fire, Keith Urban, Brett Eldredge, Cam, Chase Rice, Lady Antebellum, Hunter Hayes, Dustin Lynch, and Carly Pearce… that’s why. These are the artist who will entertain me over the next three nights.

It’s time to grab my umbrella and head out. The S.S.E. Hydro, where the event is being held, is about half an hour walk from the hostel. I hope I can get some awesome pictures and videos!

23:36

This first night was pretty amazing! I loved most everyone who performed, but I have to say I was most impressed with Ashley McBryde and of course, Chris Stapleton. I knew Chris would be good because I heard him perform at this very concert two years ago [link]. The man is flawless. I’ve heard Ashley McBryde’s album, but there were some really great songs that I connected with. I’ll have to go listen to her some more.

I took a few short videos and some pictures throughout the 6 1/2 hour festival.

Drake White and the Big Fire – Periscope

Ashley McBryde – Periscope

Lyle Lovett – Periscope

Chris Stapleton – Periscope

I’m really looking forward to two more nights of this! Tonight was an amazing night!

Scotland 7: Day 6

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03.07.18 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 22:49

After the daily morning rain stopped, I found myself back at The Apple Store, getting my phone fixed. I’ve been having some problems with my microphones. The technician took my phone to the back room and used a specialized brush to clean it all out. This is probably my fault because I refuse to buy a protective case for my phone. The thing is already big enough, without adding that protection.

Tonight I went to dinner at Mum’s, another one of my favorite restaurants in the city. This is the place to go if you want comfort food. I had three different sausages, a mustard mash, all topped with a caramelized onion gravy. So tasty!

Ion-Bru Float!

Scotland 7: Day 5

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03.06.18 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 22:27

This was another rainy morning in Edinburgh. This is not me complaining, this is me telling you that I used this reason to do some laundry, instead of running out. One of wonderful things abou this flat is that it has a washing machine. One of the bad things about this flat is that it doesn’t have a dryer. That means that I will either have to walk my wet clothes to a nearby laundromat, or just hang everything out to air dry.

Rather than eat a full breakfast or lunch, I’m munching on some cookies and drinking lots of herbal tea. I’m saving my appetite for tonight. I have made reservations (once again) at The Witchery. I’ve talked about this place in year past (link: my visits to The Witchery). All these wonderful dining experiences wouldn’t happen if it weren’t for my friend/coworker Gwen.

I decided to take a walk through Prince’s Street Gardens, which is just down from the castle and is pretty much the dividing line between Old Town and New Town. There is an amazing cemetery, right near, that I have explored in years past. I didn’t take the time to visit it this time, but will hopefully find the time before the end of this adventure.

Throughout my travels, I have heard stories where Americans have been looked down upon, for just being Americans. I remember before James and I went to France and Germany, back in 2000, I was warned by a friend that I should tell everyone I was from Canada or they’d be rude to me, especially on Paris.

I ignored this advice and had nothing but kind and caring interactions with all those who I had met. I was never ashamed of where I was from and if someone has a problem, that’s their problem and not mine. I’ve never felt this cold shoulder that I’d been warned about.

That is, until today: I’m standing in line at the Starbuck’s, waiting to order a hot chocolate. I notice the girl in line behind me has wet pants. I make no assumptions as to why her crotch is wet, she probably sat in something by mistake. I hear her American, or possibly Canadian accent so I ask her where she’s from. She tells me Ontario, Canada.

I smile and say, “Oh, we’re neighbors! I’m from the states!”

She rolls her eyes, chooses a condescending tone, and responds, “I would hate for anyone to find out I live next to America! How embarrassing!”

I respond, my tone just as cold as hers had been, “Looks like you pissed your pants! How embarrassing!”

One tradition that I was able to follow through with was going to get my dinner at The Witchery. If you’d stalked me for long, you’ll know that this is the most amazing place to eat in the city. A bit pricy, yes, but well worth it to have a fancy night out!

Scotland 7: Day 4

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03.05.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 16:16

My plans to head to the firth of forth were temporarily thwarted. When I woke up this morning, Edinburgh was having a very strong downpour. I don’t hate this weather, I just know I would have tracked mud all up and down the back side of my pants. Perhaps I’ll brave the elements tomorrow, whatever those elements may be. You’ll have to check back and find out if I did. Instead, I walked back to Princes Street, stopped in at the Apple Store, headed up to Calton Cemetery, and eventually walked up to Calton Hill.

I managed to take a live video on my Periscope account… just warning you there are some audio issues with my microphone but will have that looked at tomorrow at the Apple Store. I hope they are able to fix it- I hope it’s nothing more than a software reinstallment.

I had dinner at an Italian/Scottish restaurant called Papavero. It was a really great meal! I’ve probably been spending too much on food lately, but I justify this by telling myself that I’m on vacation and that I have budgeted for this.

Pesto Bruschetta
Lamb Shank
Banoffee Pie

About the time I was finishing up my dessert, as luck would have it, I lost part of a tooth. I bit into something crunchy and I thought, at first, that it was a piece of eggshell. Then upon further examination, I realized that part of one of my bottom-front teeth was gone. I should probably go get it looked at, but I doubt there is anybody in Scotland who would honor my dental plan. I guess I’m going to have to be careful and have it fixed when I get back to the states.

Scotland 7: Day 3

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A Beautiful Church

03.04.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 20:36

With the time zone adjustment, I didn’t wake up until after 11:00 this morning. I had planned on a walk that would have taken me about 5 hours, round trip, but since half the day was almost gone, I decided to forego that adventure for the time being. This would have taken me to an area where my ancestors lived.

As I was looking for some dinner, I was crossing between two main streets, and this restaurant caught my eye. I’ve found that so many fantastic places to have dinner are just off the beaten path. This gem was pretty much in a turning alleyway.

Smoked Borders Wood Pigeon, Orange, Endive, Candied Walnuts
Baked Scrabster Cod, Razor Clams, Barra Cockles
Montezuma’s Organic Dark Chocolate Fondant, Vanilla Ice Cream, Hazelnut Praline

All this, after I was hunting for a simple chippy for my dinner. This restaurant didn’t even have fish & chips on the menu, however. I guess that can wait for another night. I spent way too much on the meal- the understatement of the century.

Scotland 7: Day 2

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My Airbnb In Edinburgh (the two windows on the top right)

03.03.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 11:36

I ended up going to bed last night at about 20:30- I don’t know the exact time, but I knew it was early still. At 04:00, I woke up and thought that maybe I’d had enough sleep. I fell back asleep soon and was zonked out until about 10:40. Since church starts at 10:30 and is about an hour’s walk from the flat, I guess that church isn’t happening today.

21:27

I decided to go for a long walk through the city, all the way into Old Town. I ended up walking down to Holyrood and climbed Arthur’s Seat. Such a great leg workout! While I was up there, I shot a quick Periscope video- the view from the top is always so breathtaking!

The rest of the day was spent at the flat. Since I couldn’t attend church this morning, I guess I tried to salvage what was left of the Sabbath day. I heated up a frozen shepherd’s pie that I had picked up from the market for dinner. It was really good, especially for not being freshly made.

Scotland 7: Day 1

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03.02.19 | Edinburgh, Scotland | 12:15

Before I left the airport this morning, I stopped in the airport Starbucks and ate a chocolate muffin. Since I didn’t get any sleep on the plane, I needed to put something into my body that would give me some energy. It was after 08:00 (01:00 to my body) and I just needed something.

I walked outside and requested an Uber. It’s a nice, partly cloudy day in Edinburgh. It’s not raining but it must have yesterday, because the streets are all still wet.

I requested an Uber and I had my driver drop me off at the Omni Centre in New Town. This place has plenty of restaurants, a gym, and even a Vue cinema. I just don’t have the energy to do very much exploring right now. I needed a place to keep out of the wind and just relax for the time being. I saw Spider-Man: Into the Spider-verse– mostly because it was the first show playing at that moment.

I really enjoyed the animation, but there was just too much going on. I may have had a poor experience because I was fighting to stay awake for most of the film. If I could have, I would’ve spread out across the seats and just took a nap. Instead, I fought off sleep by trying to pay attention to the plot line. Occasionally I had to slap myself on the cheek to keep from dozing off.

19:49

I ended getting a late lunch at Slug and Lettuce, a popular restaurant at the Omni Centre. I’ve eaten here a number of times over the years- I ordered a vegetarian pasta. It was really good- I sometimes forget that I don’t have to eat a dead animal at every single meal.

When I checked into my Airbnb, the only thing I wanted to do was sleep. I was frustrated because I couldn’t find the lock box which had the key to get inside. I stood on the front porch of the building for about 15 minutes. Finally, the manager returned my message on Airbnb. She explained where it was and I walked up the stairs until I came to the top of the stairs, door ‘G’. 

This is a cute little one-bedroom flat. At this point, all I really wanted to do is use the toilet and then take a nap.  I set an alarm, just in case, but ended up getting a deep, three-hour nap. This was enough to catch up on some sleep, but I don’t feel like that was too much, especially after being up for about 24 hours. Hopefully, I can fall back to sleep tonight.

When I woke from my nap, I was feeling hungry again, so I walked down the street and found a little grocery store. I got some salad fixings, and small Belgium chocolate cake, some digestive biscuits (when in Rome) and some herbal teas. The plan for Scotland 7 is to not gain any weight. Therefore, I will eat more veggies, less junk food (yeah, right!), and be more active. If I can just come out even, I’ll consider my mission accomplished.