Scotland 4: Day 29

Pitlochry, Scotland | 16:51

Today has been great! I woke up after trying my best to sleep in for a bit. I got a shower and headed out to try and find a barber or salon. I found a really cool looking place to get a haircut, called Sweeny Tod. A beautiful name for a barbershop, huh? The coolest thing is that it is right next to a butcher shop. I’m not even kidding- I had to take a picture. The only problem was that today was a bank holiday- yesterday was Easter Sunday. I may have to get my haircut when I get back to Edinburgh.

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I walked around the town for a bit and found breakfast. At the hostel, they offered cereal and toast and stuff for about 2 pounds, but I wanted something warm. I found an excellent little bistro/restaurant and had a traditional Scottish breakfast (minus the black pudding, of course). I headed back to the hostel for a few minutes and decided to head back out and see if I could find that haircut somewhere.

Low and behold, Sweeny Tod was open! I went inside and he was just finishing up with some guy’s cut- I was soon in the chair. The guy working there told me that his name was Will Robertson. I had initially planned on having Will just shave my head. My beautiful fake blonde hair had been growing out, and I was starting to get the brown roots with the blonde top, and I wasn’t a fan. Will told me that he thought it looked cool and that he wanted to turn it into a mohawk. “What the hell!” I let him do what he’d planned to do. He shaved up the sides with no guard, and to me, it looks like a cross between a military cut and a mohawk. I think it looks pretty cool!

When he was done with my haircut, I noticed a newspaper clipping of something having to do with the popular U.K. show “The X Factor”. We started talking about music and I told him how I liked to sing. Next thing I know, he whips out his guitar and starts playing me all these songs that he’d written. I thought they were good, a couple of them I thought were great and I could picture someone singing them on the radio. We sat there for about a half-hour while he gave me my own private concert. It was so cool! People were walking by the barbershop and they could hear the music so they’d sit in front and listen for a bit. They’d look in at us like we were some exhibit or something. It was quite funny. Will’s band is called “Stone Angels”- I’ll have to look them up when I get back home.

Next, I went for a walk. Just outside Pitlochry, there’s a beautiful little loch called Loch Faskally. I followed a trail around it- it turned out to be a beautiful spring day and it was so refreshing to be out in nature for a bit. This has quickly become one of my favorite stops in Scotland. Such a quaint little town, about 2500 people according to the 2001 census. So green and lovely, too. If I get to come back to Scotland again, I’ll definitely come here again!

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After my hike around the loch, I stopped to get some ice cream on my way back to the hostel. It’s been nice to sit and relax for a little bit. After this rest, I plan on heading back out to get dinner somewhere. I just watched the Disney movie Tangled. It was pretty good!

22:12

Dinner was at a restaurant called McKay’s. I had a half chicken with mashed potatoes. Okay, chicken is great, but when they leave all the veins and ugly parts in the bird, it’s a bit less appetizing. I did an excellent job working around all those parts, though. It was pretty good.

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I hate to leave this place so soon but am back on the train again tomorrow. I wish I had the time and the money to stay longer. After all, when the agent at Glasgow airport stamped my passport, he did tell me that I can stay up to six months. That would be sweet! I feel like it’s almost time to head home and get back to work.

Scotland 4: Day 28

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Saying Goodbye to Thurso (At the Train Station)
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Thurso > Pitlochry | 12:29

I’m hungry. I hope that they have the trolley service on this train because even though I woke up early and ate some cereal at the hostel, it didn’t take. I’ve never been to Pitlochry, I’m excited to see another new place. I remember the very first time I took the train up to Inverness from Edinburgh, years ago, seeing the sign for Pitlochry and wondering what was there- I guess I’m about to find out. The only bad news is that I’ll be stuck on this train for the next six hours. That’s almost a coast to coast flight in the US. I need food.

Pitlochry, Scotland | 22:22

I left the train with these directions to find the hostel: “Go to the town center and you’ll find the hostel.” I was a bit worried that Pitlochry was going to be like a dinky little village where there’d be nothing to see or do. I wandered for about 5 minutes from the train station, found what I thought may be the town center and sure enough. There was the hostel.

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I met a few people staying at the hostel. There’s a guy who lives further south in Scotland. He’s here looking for work at the moment. One of the girls who works at the front desk is here because she fell in love. She met this guy when she was about 18 years old and he was actually married at that time (scandal?!). They happened to have the same group of friends and she got to know this couple. Years later, his wife left him and this receptionist realized that they’d grown to love each other like family. So after a time, it became more than that. Now they’re a couple.

There are a couple girls here from Poland and I’ve met four people from Austria here. This is quite a nice hostel. One of my favorite that I’ve stayed in up to this point.

Scotland 4: Day 27

Thurso, Scotland | 22:04

Today was a bit of a bummer. It rained and rained, and other than grabbing lunch to go, I didn’t get out until about 17:00 or so. I found dinner at a pub/restaurant. It was good, but not great. After dinner, I’d planned on walking back to the beach but remembered that I needed to get my check-out information before the front desk/chip shop closed. I also wanted to visit the barber.

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The ground level of the hostel is a chip shop

I’m not an expert when it comes to dying my hair. I wish it would last longer, however. It’s only been a few days, and I can already see brown roots. I have a newfound appreciation for those who keep their hair an unnatural color, but keep it looking natural. That takes talent (and more money than I like to spend). I was on my way to get my head shaved tonight but couldn’t find an open barbershop.

Since Minesh and Paul are gone, I didn’t want to go hang out in a pub by myself, so I stayed at the hostel. Today was basically me- sitting around watching TV and a movie on the iPad.

Scotland 4: Day 26

Inverness > Thurso | 10:53

I just had to say goodbye to Inverness. I love this place, but it’s time to see some more of Scotland. I’m excited to go north. My destination is Thurso, which is almost as far north as you can go while staying on the mainland. Not sure what there is to see or do there, but I guess I’ll find out.

I slept okay last night. At about 01:00, my roommates came in. They were very loud and somewhat rude. They kept turning on the light, then leaving the room, so I’d have to get up to turn out the light, then they’d do it all over again. I finally (nicely) told them to knock it off, and they did. While I was getting ready this morning, I might have been a little louder than was necessary.

Thurso, Scotland | 16:54

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Thurso, Scotland: Walking to my hostel.

I can now say I’ve been to Thurso, Scotland. Thurso has about 9000 people and seems like a lovely town. I checked in at my hostel and met my roommate. He’s a 60+-year-old Scot who doesn’t have much to say to me. Here’s how it went down:

Me: Hello. How are you?

Him: –

Me: I’m Dave from the states (I usually don’t introduce myself as ‘Dav’ when I’m abroad because that just opens up an entire conversation. I don’t mind the extra chat, but ‘Dave’ is a time-saver.).

Him: –

Me: Okay, well, I’m going to get some dinner.

I wonder what this guy’s deal is. I mentioned him to some others staying here, and they told me he’s like that with everyone. Maybe he’ll open up to me tomorrow.

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My Room at the Hostel

I walked to the local beach, which was quite lovely. There were people (mostly kids and teens) out playing in the surf, and they have a nice little setup here. What a beautiful ocean! I’m not sure if this is considered part of the North Sea or if it’s considered the Northern Atlantic. Afterward, I explored that town for a while.

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I also met Minesh, who is from India and Paul from somewhere here in the U.K. They’re on a bike ride that started at John O’Groats, and they will ride to the bottom of England. That sounds fun and exhausting! I’d love to do something similar one day.

23:06

I had a great time hanging out with the guys tonight. They’re fun guys and I found out that they’re doing this ride to raise money for a charity- something to do with muscular dystrophy or something like that. That is very commendable! I hope they raise a ton of money! 

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Minesh and Paul

I have two new roommates now- two brothers from England. I’m not sure why they’re up here. Hopefully, we can chat tomorrow.

Scotland 4: Day 25

04.21.11 | Inverness, Scotland | 19:49

I woke up this morning and felt the need to go for a walk-a loooong walk. I I woke up this morning and felt the need to go for a long walk. I walked through town, bought some bread, bottled water, M&Ms, a subway sandwich, and hit the road- I walked to Loch Ness. I want you to be impressed because I did all this in new shoes.

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At the loch, I found a big rock to sit on and had lunch there on the shore. It was so peaceful and relaxing to put my feet into the water. I walked (mostly limped) all the way back to the hostel. When I got back, I googled my route, and one-way was 6.6 miles. I think that comes to like 13.2 miles walked today! I’m pretty proud of that, especially with my limp!

For dinner, I walked to Iceland, a local grocery store, and found an enormous chicken asparagus pie. It was delicious, but I only ate half and ended up giving it to one of my hostel mates. Tonight I’ll be packing my bag, getting ready to go to my next destination in the morning.

Scotland 4: Day 24

04.20.11 | Inverness hostel | 11:58

I finally got a great night’s sleep and I woke up rested and ready to go. I finally got a great night’s sleep and woke up rested and ready to go. I’m so thankful because I plan on walking a long way today. I think my cough is getting better- only time will tell. I grabbed breakfast at Tesco (three crescents, chocolate milk, and banana milk) and ate it on a park bench that overlooks the River Ness. On my way over, however, I started a horrible limp. For some reason, my right leg was hurting bad! It was so sudden, I think my shoes are finally worn out. That would explain the giant holes in both of the soles. It’s high time I get some new shoes.

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This is what happens to your shoes when you walk all around God’s creation.

I stopped at a department store, but they didn’t have very much of shoe selection. I could tell that the shoes they did have would last me three weeks at the most. I continued my limp around Inverness until I found a place called Rogerson Fine Footwear. This shoe store had more variety.

I found a very comfortable pair of shoes. They have this ergonomic inside, so they feel incredible to walk around in. After I’d tried them on, the salesperson asked me if I wanted them. I told her that I’d love them, but needed to stay within my budget. I asked her how much they were.

I’ve never spent this much on a pair of shoes in my entire lifetime! If I ever have kids or grandkids, none of them will be able to go to college now because of how much I just spend on one pair of shoes. These shoes are “vegan” if there’s such a thing in footwear. The fake leather has been oiled with “Natural Vegetable Oil,” and the sole is made from recycled rubber. I’m admittedly not a tree-hugger or a hippy, but after today’s purchase, I may be forced to become one.

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My New Kicks

15:36

I walked around town for a while and noticed that my leg was still hurting a bit. I decided to see if I could find a massage somewhere. I’ve walked so many miles while I’ve been here, that it wasn’t too tough to convince myself that I needed one. I found a place, but the receptionist told me that they didn’t have any availability. She asked me to wait around while she made a couple phone calls. She called a guy who’d recently moved to town- I set up a 14:00 appointment with him.

The massage was great! This therapist really knew what he was doing! I walked out of there a few minutes ago, and I feel like a million bucks! I felt as if I’d floated back to the hostel. It was good to have this “reset” of my muscles, knowing that I still have a lot of walking in front of me.

Scotland 4: Day 23

4.19.11 | Aberdeen > Inverness | 11:03

I don’t think that I need to point out that last night’s sleep was horrible. I didn’t splurge for a cabin this time- they gave me a seat, much like a seat on an airplane, but it was a litter wider- that is unless you fly first or business class. I spent the entire night tossing and turning and all that.

I arrived in Aberdeen on time and had a few hours to kill before my train left the station. I found a coffee shop and got some hot chocolate and read my book. Oh, by the way, the book I got yesterday is called “Scotland” and it’s part of the “Horrible Histories” collection. This guy has written these different history books (more than 50 in the set so far) and in the books, he shares some historical facts but he tells them in such a way that it’s a light-hearted, funny approach. I can tell they’re geared to school-age children but since that’s about my maturity level, it worked. An illustrator adds in comics about what’s going on. I may have to check out his other books. The website is www.horrible-histories.co.uk. It’s totally worth checking out.

Now it’s time for me to talk about fashion. If you know me or have seen me dress, you’ll note that I’m not really into fashion- in fact, I often don’t care what I’m wearing. The last time I was in the UK, a lot of the guys were all about the mullet hairstyle- as ugly as that is. This statement left most of the U.S. by 1980, but if you’re traveling around the southern states you may see one or two.

Right now, it seems like a lot of people over here (mostly guys) are into wearing white shoes. While not as bad as a mullet, they like to wear these white shoes with dark, dark jeans. This makes the white shoes stand out quite a bit. Around Glasgow and Edinburgh, I’d often see someone in all-black, except for their bright white shoes. This may not be a fashion movement per se, but it has stood out to me a bit while I’ve been over here.

Inverness Hostel | 12:41

Walking over here was just great. There’s a slight chill in the air, but it’s probably at least 10° warmer than it was on Orkney… maybe not, but it feels like it.

18:12

For dinner, I had fish and chips again. It was some wonderful salt/vinegar/grease. I’ve heard it’s good for you too! It’s so great to be back in Inverness. I can tell it missed me. Bad.

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22:37

It’s been a nice easy evening. I watched Gulliver’s Travels– it was meh. I do love Jack Black, but I don’t think there was much special about this picture. I’m off to cough in bed. Yay!


Back to Scotland 4: Day 3 | Forward to Scotland 4: Day 24

Scotland 4: Day 22

4.18.11 | Stromness > Thurso | 19:25

Today has had many high points, and also a few not-so-high points. I knew that this would be my last day on Orkney so my goal was to get out and see some more of it. I was bound and determined to do this. Last night I sent a Facebook message to Soeren that basically said I would plan on being at the bus station at 09:30 and if he wanted to come
explore with me, he could.

I woke up really early and packed up all my clothes and things. I had asked one of the front desk workers if I could leave my big bag at the hostel throughout the day, that way I wouldn’t have to carry it all over. She told me that it was fine and that the only thing I needed to make sure of was to be out of my room before the 10:30 checkout time. I had no problems with that.

A few minutes before 09:00 I left my big bag of clothes near the front desk and took my smaller backpack with my iPad and other things with me. I stopped at Tesco on the way and bought 2 butter crescents and made my way to the bus station. Soeren got there right at 09:30 and we decided that we wanted to go to Stromness, on the other side of the island. He had been there the previous day, but was short on time- so he didn’t have the chance to really explore it.

About half an hour later, we were on the bus. Orkney isn’t that big of an island, but I didn’t realize how small it actually was. It was only 16 miles to Stromness, so we were there in no time at all.

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On a Bus to Stromness

Stromness is the coolest looking port village, it is a lot smaller than Kirkwall. There is a main street that goes through the center of town and with all of the stone and rock buildings towering over, it’s almost like you’re walking back in time. Part of the street was even paved with some kind of cobblestone.

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The Main Street Through Stromness

After exploring, we stopped for lunch at a bistro/cafe. I got some soup, a sandwich, and some white hot chocolate to drink. That hit the spot and soon we were off walking down the street again.

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I had the funniest experience while walking down the street. I was approached by an orange cat. I thought for sure the thing was tame, so I kneeled down in the street to try to pet the thing. When I knelt down, however, I found out that it didn’t want to be pet. It wanted a ride. It quickly walked around me and jumped up on my backpack. The was the oddest thing! So, Soeren and I continued to walk down the street until this cat had decided it was his stop, and it jumped to the street and mad it’s way down an alley. It was the wildest thing! I still laugh when I think about it.

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On the south side of Stromness, there is a golf course and just past that is the ocean. We found a place where there were a bunch of seals resting on the rocks. We tried to get closer to them for a better picture, but they saw us coming and quickly went back into the water. We could see the beautiful hills of Hoy but didn’t have time to go across and get close. After going all the way around the golf course, we found an old farm road that took us back into the town.

A few hours of wandering around and we were back on the bus that took us back to Kirkwall. They dropped us off near the Tesco and I thought it would be good to grab something that I could fix for dinner so I wouldn’t have to come back to town for a restaurant later. I found some pasta and bought it. Since Soeren’s hostel was further away than mine, I suggested he come with me to mine and that way we could relax
for a few minutes before he’d leave and go fix his own dinner.

So- we’re sitting there talking in the living room and in comes one of the front desk clerks. He asked me what we were doing. I said we were just chatting. He asked me if we were staying in the hostel. I told him that I was and that even though I’d checked out this morning, my ferry didn’t leave until about 2345 so I was just going to chill here for a bit. I told him my name and everything. So he tells me in a very rude tone, “Well, it would have been nice if you’d of let us know you were coming back.” I told him that of course, I was going to come back because my bag was here. Plus, the other lady who works with him told me that as long as I was out of the room by 10:30, then it was fine.

So now he’s obviously upset with me just because there was no communication between him and the person I’d talked to before. After he leaves, I tell Soeren “Screw this. We’re obviously not wanted here!” We grabbed our stuff and left the hostel. I didn’t want to head into town with my big old bag, so I told Soeren goodbye and left to walk about 2 miles or so to the ferry terminal.

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What sucked was the fact that I could see a rainstorm coming in over the hills and I was still over a mile away. So I decided I had to up my pace a bit so I wouldn’t get caught in the rain. I finally get to the terminal, just in time. Instead of only having to deal with rain, it brought this thick fog with it also. I get here and it’s a little bit after 17:00 and there’s a sign informing me that the place won’t even open up until about 21:00. So I had to wait outside in the wind and the rain and everything.

I was finally able to make it to a shelter at least. Even though I’d have to still wait in the wind and the rain, at least I had a cover over my head. I would sit there and read my book but I couldn’t sit still for very long because it was starting to get really cold. So I’m
pacing, reading and shivering. It wasn’t fun.

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Finally, at about 18:30 or so, a worker shows up and the first thing she says to me is “You know we don’t open until 2100, don’t you?” I smiled, chose a polite tone, and I ask her if I can just wait inside out of the wind. I told her I understood that I wouldn’t get to check in for the ferry for a few hours, but all I wanted was to get out of the elements.

Her name was Louise. She was the nicest person in the world and said that it would be just fine if I waited inside. She sent me upstairs into this waiting lounge. I’m able to sit on a nice patted chair and wait here now. There’s even a vending machine with drinks and candy in it! She gave me the remote to the television so I could watch if I wanted too. My favorite person of the day is Louise! I’m in here now thawing out, munching on a candy bar. Too bad my ferry doesn’t leave for another three and a half hours.

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Kirkwall > Aberdeen | 23:22

I just boarded the ferry and at this very moment we’re pushing out to
sea. I’m crossing my fingers that the waters will be still! I’m going to
try to sleep now.


Back to Scotland 4: Day 3 | Forward to Scotland 4: Day 23

Scotland 4: Day 21

4.17.11 | Kirkwall, Scotland | 17:17

Today was a good Sunday. I started the day walking around Kirkwall while listening to podcasts. Breakfast was a sugar donuts filled with custard. Back to the hostel- downloaded/listened to more podcasts. It’s a bit more difficult getting that “Sunday” feeling when I’m out and about, especially when I don’t attend church.

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Lunch today was pasta in a pub (speaking of honoring the Sabbath day), and this afternoon I hung out with a gal named Erin. She is a university student in Edinburgh who hopes to get the funds to start doing her Ph.D. next year. She’ll be studying some of the folk tales of Scottish and Norwegian heritage. I’m not sure what her goal is there, but she plans on spending a lot of time on Orkney and Shetland in libraries and talking to locals.

Erin and I went to dinner tonight. We went back to ‘Buster’s,’ the place I’d eaten the other day. We had the curry, it was pretty good. Tonight I spent time coughing up a lung while playing games on my iPad. To be honest, my cough is a lot better than it was yesterday. Hopefully, it will be gone soon. I’m going to explore tomorrow. Rain or shine… coughing or breathing fine. Whatever.

Scotland 4: Day 20

4.16.11 | Kirkwall Hostel | 16:00

I woke up this morning with a blister on my left heal. This is what happens when I lug my heavy backpack all around unknown parts at night. So far, I’ve met one of my roommates. I didn’t get his name, but he has a lumberjack beard and is living at the hostel full-time because he’s come to Orkney for work. He wants to learn how to make Whiskey and take that back to his home in Australia. Everyone needs to chase goals and dreams, I guess. He seems nice enough. The other four beds in the room had sleepers in them last night, but they were all gone by the morning. Next part of their holiday, no doubt.

I just met a guy named Xu. He is from China but currently studying in Glasgow. He has brought his roommates (one is from Germany and the other from India) up for the weekend.

Here’s some advice. If you come visit Orkney, pick better days than I did. Not only am I here during the off-season, but I’m here on a weekend. It’s amazing to me how many businesses here are closed on weekends. Sunday, I get but why would you have to close on Saturday or even Friday? Didn’t they know I was coming?

I ventured down to the local tourist information spot (nearly soaked in the morning rain on my way there) to find out what day tours they had here. Nobody was there, but they left the place unlocked. They didn’t really have a whole lot of information out there- I did get a bus schedule, but I’m not really sure it will help me until Monday. I may just stay in tonight- my nasty cough has come back and I know it’s keeping my roommates up at night. So far, Tesco’s generic brand cough syrup isn’t kicking it. Maybe it will be good to stay out of the elements for the evening? Perhaps I should start drinking hard liquor. hmmm decisions, decisions.

I grabbed a quick lunch at a place called “Buster’s” but ordered too much- so yay for having taken care of dinner already! On the menu? The second half of my Kabob meat (lamb?), garlic butter and extra cheese pizza. It’s so good.

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19:02

I got a facebook message from Soeren and he said he’s not going to be online but I can call his mobile phone to get ahold of him. He doesn’t want to pay for Internet access at his hostile and I don’t want to pay international roaming and fees on my own mobile phone. I’d love to see him and travel with him here in Orkney, but need to get ahold of him online first.


Back to Scotland 4: Day 3 | Forward to Scotland 4: Day 21